Interior grinding continues to remove rust using a wire brush wheel to remove paint and rust down to the metal... although working long enough you end to wear down the wheels.
It's super important to wear sufficient protection including gloves, mask and eye protection. I actually removed my safety goggles and found a piece of wire brush embedded and sticking out of my forehead... just above the goggles. Having a piece of wire shot into the eye would not have been good. Once the brush begins to to lose portions of itself it disintegrates fairly quickly.
I measured and test fit cardboard templates for the fabbing of the new floor pans which was imperitive to make sure the pans would fit correctly. The A/C shop I chose locally constructed the pans using 18 gauge metal and bent the tabs that would be used to attach it to the floors. They turned out great and fit nearly perfectly. Obviously some finesse with a hammer was needed to ensure an ideal fit so I could pop rivet the pans in place.
I was really happy with the accuracy that the shop replicated the pans versus the cardboard templates I made and was even more pleased that it only cost me $45 for both sides. I test fit them and besides a little bending and torque work to get them in place just right it looked like it would match up perfectly.
After all the grinding and test fitting and scrubbing of 50 year old metal there was a noticeable accumulation of dust and crud throughout the interior. Blowing it out with an air hose was not the greatest solution so I rolled it into the driveway, removed the floor plugs, and gave it a good bath, complete with soap and water and a hand towel dry.
After letting it dry in the sun, I rolled the Spit back into the garage and taped off the rest of the interior so I could primer it to prevent and ongoing rust issues.
The primer went on smoothly and revealed the insane amount of screw holes the prior owner had inflicted onto the floor to attach the old carpet. With a car this low I was surprised there weren't more issues with rust and pooled/standing water in the pan. I guess we were a little lucky in that respect.
Since this is a renovation and not a full bore restoration there would be no 'welding of ye holes' and I just needed something that would last until the next resto/renovation. Although there are car products that could probably handle this duty I didn't find anything locally that was both pliable and waterproof. After some consideration and poking around Home Depot I stumbled upon this roofing goo that looked like it would serve perfectly.
I ended up using wood shims to apply the roofing goo across the smaller holes and seams that looked suspicious. After a bit the stuff dried to a consistency almost like bathroom caulk - although seemingly much more durable. I figured if it can withstand weather, sun, and uv on metal roofing it should certainly be enough to seal the pans.
After sealing up the various seams and holes I applied a bead to the driver pan and was able to press it in place. A cordless drill and pop rivets finalized the installation along with some hammer-whacking to ensure a tight fit along the different seams. Eureka - $50 worth of new floors! Enough to last quite a few more years!
Interior grinding continues to remove rust using a wire brush wheel to remove paint and rust down to the metal... although working long enough you end to wear down the wheels. 
It's super important to wear sufficient protection including gloves, mask and eye protection. I actually removed my safety goggles and found a piece of wire brush embedded and sticking out of my forehead... just above the goggles. Having a piece of wire shot into the eye would not have been good. Once the brush begins to to lose portions of itself it disintegrates fairly quickly. 
I measured and test fit cardboard templates for the fabbing of the new floor pans which was imperitive to make sure the pans would fit correctly. The A/C shop I chose locally constructed the pans using 18 gauge metal and bent the tabs that would be used to attach it to the floors. They turned out great and fit nearly perfectly. Obviously some finesse with a hammer was needed to ensure an ideal fit so I could pop rivet the pans in place.
I was really happy with the accuracy that the shop replicated the pans versus the cardboard templates I made and was even more pleased that it only cost me $45 for both sides. I test fit them and besides a little bending and torque work to get them in place just right it looked like it would match up perfectly. 
After all the grinding and test fitting and scrubbing of 50 year old metal there was a noticeable accumulation of dust and crud throughout the interior. Blowing it out with an air hose was not the greatest solution so I rolled it into the driveway, removed the floor plugs, and gave it a good bath, complete with soap and water and a hand towel dry. 
After letting it dry in the sun, I rolled the Spit back into the garage and taped off the rest of the interior so I could primer it to prevent and ongoing rust issues. 
The primer went on smoothly and revealed the insane amount of screw holes the prior owner had inflicted onto the floor to attach the old carpet. With a car this low I was surprised there weren't more issues with rust and pooled/standing water in the pan. I guess we were a little lucky in that respect. 
Since this is a renovation and not a full bore restoration there would be no 'welding of ye holes' and I just needed something that would last until the next resto/renovation. Although there are car products that could probably handle this duty I didn't find anything locally that was both pliable and waterproof. After some consideration and poking around Home Depot I stumbled upon this roofing goo that looked like it would serve perfectly. 
I ended up using wood shims to apply the roofing goo across the smaller holes and seams that looked suspicious. After a bit the stuff dried to a consistency almost like bathroom caulk - although seemingly much more durable. I figured if it can withstand weather, sun, and uv on metal roofing it should certainly be enough to seal the pans. 
After sealing up the various seams and holes I applied a bead to the driver pan and was able to press it in place. A cordless drill and pop rivets finalized the installation along with some hammer-whacking to ensure a tight fit along the different seams. Eureka - $50 worth of new floors! Enough to last quite a few more years!